29 May 2008
26 May 2008
Foulweather #3: The Urban Wilderness
NYC by Pete21 May 2008
Surfing Sucks
The Azores, Atlantic Eden or "Shitty little islands where people watch Al-Jazeera?"Photo from The Guardian.
19 May 2008
Random cell phone photo update
You can shop here but please don't have any fun here. Lincoln City Outlet Mall is stinkier than my armpit (which is currently festering at the moment with some bizarre puss-ridden rash) .
Foulweather issue #2 on the Zine shelf in Powell's. Check it out! Still selling steady and the feedback has been encouraging. Big Fucking Deal, indeed.
Aaaaah, after a week long migraine, I snuck off to the coast last night. First I stopped at the new Cannon Beach skatepark. After being mostly bed-ridden and in a daze for a week, I probably should not have attempted to skate. Tight trannies + brand spanking new concrete + one decrepit old skateboarder with a current lack of balance = plenty of head first dives to the flat bottom. After one particular slam that resulted in a lovely 'swellbow,' I was over it. Looking at my elbow, it looked as though, someone surgically inserted a ping pong ball under my skin. I hoped the cold Pacific would ease the swelling a bit. But no, the water had to be warm, didn't it?

Anyway, best surf session in a long time. Fast hollow lefts, mostly to myself. Tried to pull in backside a few times, which never seems as consequential when the water warms up. Crazy angled take offs aided by my quad fin that lets me get away with such malarkey. Beer on the beach and back home to the family, who are starting to suggest I ease up falling off my skateboard...
So yeah, apart from a migraine that had me wishing for death and that was only curable with a combination of acupuncture, cranial manipulation, massages and mad doses of chinese herbs, a puss-ridden arm pit rash and a giant swellbow, things are just dandy.
07 May 2008
Core

A beastly dark primitive takes out the encroaching white-short, bleach blonde civilized nightmare and then steal his wallet on the beach.
I never really cared about 'surf culture' until I started to learn about the life and legend of surfing's original antihero, Miki Dora. I was content to just surf and ignore all the other bullshit that surf 'culture' represented. Infact I pretty much closed my mind to surf history as a result. I identified as a skateboarder who liked to ride waves. Then I began to understand the role of Miki Dora in the wider scheme of things and how his life and fame became not only a metaphor for surfing's expulsion from eden and subsequent commercialization but a wider metaphor for the beginning of the end of California's Utopic appeal and the commodification of youth, alternative, drop out and radical subcultures in general.
I'm excited that his legend is getting so much attention but like the paradoxes and contradictions he wallowed in while he was alive, this struggle over his legend looks set to continue to propagate the eternal struggle between purity and profit.
At one point in his life, Dora was on the lam for an extended period. Some of which was spent in South Africa, surfing of course, but also looking for diamonds in the Namib desert. He was guided by bushmen and relished in their primitive existence while he sought to get rich off little fragments of the earth's core. While, I was reading about this, I realized that Dora really is the personification of civilization versus nature, and he was not a walking paradox after all. He could not have taken any other path. He was thrown into an historical, time, setting and arena that led us to our current struggle. How to survive in this current system while satisfying our primal urges. How to remain human, as we become ever more entangled in this removed, distant, techno-centric, symbolic existence.
This shit plagues me daily and it was the impetus behind Foulweather #2. I can only hope I have made a small contribution to making contemporary sense of the meaning of Miki Dora's life.
06 May 2008
WebCam Rothko


