09 June 2007


Not getting tubed, Photo by Stiv.

I had one of my best surfs in a long time yesterday. Conditions were far from epic but there were lots of waves coming through. I was about done with my day and so caught a mediocre right-hander in. After a couple of turns it mushed out and I had to pump hard to keep speed. As I was doing so, a left came reeling from the other direction, converged with the wave I was riding and created a steep wedge. The wave then started reeling, fast. Meanwhile, I was taking note of another surfer paddling out on my inside.

And then the lip began to pitch.

Tuck in and risk getting pitched on the bloke paddling out or play it safe and kick out over the top?

I tucked in and hoped for glory. Hand in the face, I kept my eye on the paddling surfer. I could see a big grin on his face as the aquatic curtain closed over me. It didn't last long and I'm glad it doesn't happen often or I would pretty much have to permanently go on the lam, in search of more and more...

As instant as it was, my little tube, totally re-invigorated my love of surfing and justified all the time I waste seeking out these fractional moments.

I still suck.