16.7.09
12.7.09
Disattachment
Temporary cathedral at the edge of the world by Jim Denevan
One of the sad things about surfing is that the best memories are fleeting. Before one knows it, they have all but disappeared, erased like they never existed. Sometimes when the focus is so intense, the concentration so great, it seems as though they don't even get recorded.
Many times I have finished a wave to find a blank space in my mind about what just occurred during that ride. -Gerry Lopez ‘A Big Score’
Up until very recently I agreed with this quote. Up until very recently, I placed a lot of stock in my mental- well-being on getting good waves or should I say holding onto the memory of good waves to be able to tap back into during dark times.
I thought it was a healthy approach to life. Better than relying on drugs, religion, career, wealth and material accumulation, right? But along with that, came a need to hold onto as much of the experience as possible, like Gerry notes in the above quote. Yet, surfing is so very fleeting. So much time and effort is spent in exchange for mere seconds of ecstasy. Our cultural pre-programming in late-capitalist societies dictates that should a consumer expend such time and effort on the acquisition of a product or experience, they should have something tangible to hold onto forever, at the very least a photograph or a vivid memory…
A couple of weeks ago, I caught a wave that once upon a time I would have wished I could have held onto for the rest of my earthly days. The setting: a spooky river-mouth and a thumping sandbar, making the most of a very mediocre summer swell and several dedicated friends jumping off the rocks into the murky unknown on a cloudy central Oregon morning.
I can barely remember it now but a nice right hand peak presented itself to me just off the northend rocks. I assumed it would be another dumping close-out but I thought it would be worth the thrashing for a little thrill-drop. The wave let me in with ease and as I took the drop, I saw the bottom suck from beneath me and I was ready for an impending engulfment of white-water but as I cranked the bottom-turn, the wave walled up and it was on. I can’t remember any further details aside from a very quick deliberation of whether to go for the barrel or to connect the wave to the middle sandbar (I avoided the barrel). But I do remember, the post-wave joy, grinning to myself, and nodding to myself that the hundreds of miles driven were worth that one wave. In hindsight it wasn’t that great but in the context of recent sessions it was an absolute mind-blower. On the paddle back out the words of Gerry Lopez floated to the front of my mind, even though I hadn’t read them yet.
I thought to myself “You will soon forget that wave. You won’t remember any of its nuances and before long you’ll only have an abstract and vague recollection that at this one spot on July 4th 2009, you had a pretty good wave.” So what? And I had to laugh at the pure meaningless of it all. In days of yore, it would trouble me no end, that such a joyous few seconds were all so fleeting, and would eventually mean nothing to no one, especially to my mortal self. To counter the pain of attachment, in the past, I’d simply desire more and torture myself in pursuit. But this time something was different. It was genuinely comical to me and the joy was amplified ten-fold. It is all so pointless, so temporary, so fleeting, so motherfucking beautiful. And I love it all the more.
As it happens, another wave did come my way and so did another but then my session went to shit and I spent the next hour tripping over myself trying to make the drop on thumping close-out or sinking on dribbling shoulders. It was over as soon as it began and thank God for that.
Despite Gerry’s words, I can’t find anything sad, in how that wave partially ironed out my anxiety-ridden and tormented ego.
Disappeared.
Erased.
Like they never existed.
Perfect.
Surfing: It is everything and nothing to me.
26.6.09
Reacquainted
15.6.09
Random Twit
Just a random tweet to say I appreciate everyone's recent feedback, emails and comments. Thanks for reading. Hopefully, I'll have some fresh material soon but all the feedback has motivated me to get the new issue layed out and edited.
I'm about to clock off work. I'm looking at my bike and getting amped to manipulate my way through the city streets, cross the river and then cruise through the leafy neighbourhoods, power up the hill and tuck into a bowl of soup while sweating buckets. Keeping moving.
10.6.09
Through the narrow chinks of my cavern
So you want me to open a Facebook account, start twittering? I just can’t do it. And it is not just because I’m trying to take a stand against social networking or faceless technology. It is because it would bum the hell out of you. Here’s the truth that I’m going to get off my chest once and for all. Goddamn this keyboard to hell… once my fingers get going there’s no stopping them… endless typos will ensue, fuelled by caffeine and Electrelane.
Since I returned from my last visit home, I’ve been in a funk. Some might call it depression and prescribe me anti-depressants. But I think of it as the beginnings of an awakening…. Hopefully…
Literally, one day a few months back, I woke up and finally understood, that I am going to die. Whether it is of a heart attack at age thirty-seven like my grandfather Mervyn, or whether I will live through my nineties, dribbling away in a nursing home, like my wife’s grandmother Jean currently is. One day I will die. It is obvious isn’t it? We all die. I’ve certainly, known a few living people who are now dead and it made perfect sense. I once saw someone get beaten to death. I’ve carried a coffin. I’ve mourned. I thought I knew who death was but did I fuck… Now I think I know.
It was probably sometime around February, when I put my daughter Medwen, to bed. She was afraid to sleep in her own room, afraid of the dark. “I just want to snuggle with you guys.” It broke my heart. Then I thought to myself, one day, this beautiful child, so full of life, will grow up, will get old and will die. And I asked myself, “Why did I agree to put a human being through this?” And I had no answer. Then I wondered whether I would see her grow up and convinced myself that I myself, was dying.
I developed a crease in my ear lobe, which some people say is a warning sign of heart disease. That was it. I knew I was going to die within a year or so. With a family history of heart disease I was doomed. I chilled on the dairy intake and started running… and oh how I ran… I ran against death, snarling and spitting, running like I was seventeen again, up and down the mountain. FUCK YOU… I will see my daughter grow up… then my heart would slow down after running but the anxiety would return… heart palpations, panic, dread, lying awake, waiting to be taken from existence.
I’d attempt to get through my daily routine and it all seemed so worthless. How can we be having such an inane conversation when we’re dying, I’d think. Why do I even go to work? If I’m going to die, maybe I should just get the anxiety over with and get on with it. Once, I’m gone all this turmoil will be left behind anyway…. But where am I going? As a self-confessed atheist, I panicked about non-existence and set the viscous circle spinning again. So obviously I can began demanding a meaning from existence. There has to be some point to this seemingly cruel cosmic joke, I posited to the ominous clouds above. And I dwelled and dwelled on it. I still dwell on it.
I told my wife, I was going on a spiritual quest and she feared I was going to pack my back-pack and hitchhike to India but I knew that it was far more arduous of a journey and that no geographical location would make the shite bit of difference. I told her, that I needed to be around religion for a while. Again, as I self-confessed Atheist, this surprised me more than her. And then she said, “Just don’t start going to church.” Even though, I knew I’d never look to rediscover my Catholic boyhood, I wanted to be around people who dwelled on things beyond this physical existence that is tangible only to the five senses. So I read some books, everything from Atheist texts disproving there is a God to Taoist texts to Buddhist self-help guides to histories of world religions to Deep Ecology. I realized my atheism was largely a political stance. I didn’t really care that deeply about atheism but in our current geo-political climate a secular approach to world affairs and human relations it seemed the only sane angle to take. I could no longer deny, certain ‘spiritual awakenings’ I have experienced throughout my life, that I might bore you with at a later date.
So all the reading helped some, and I took solace in the communalities between various religions and spiritual paths and started constructing my own personal and private unifying theory of life and death.
I began to live life again or at least try to. I’d still wake up surprised I was alive and breathing but I could at least tackle daily existence. I went camping one weekend with two friends. It was great, we camped, surfed, got sunburned, rode skateboards, hung on the beach, cooked tuna which one of us caught, made man talk and drank some beer. I said to myself, this is life, this is living, this is an ideal weekend for me. And then a brutal wave of dread washed over me Maybe it is, BUt YOU ARE STILL GOING TO DIE.
I thought back to Medwen. I should be with her.
When she talks of death it is so matter-of-fact, it astounds me. She talks of death frequently. Our dead cat, whose ashes we have on the shelf. She loves to talk about how he died of stomach cancer and how we had him cremated, so Mummy can keep him close. She even told Alison, “Your grandmother, will die soon.” She was compassionate about it but it didn’t faze her. She is OK with it all.
I remember when Medwen was born, she wasn’t breathing when she came out. The midwife worked her arse off to get baby breathing. I was shitting myself and then she breathed but no crying. That first night, we had to watch her continuously to make sure she continued to breathe. My wife, recovering after a 24+hour labor took to some much-needed sleep and I sat up holding Medwen. She was smaller than my forearm. I was hunched over a chair just staring at her for hours. Then I put my forehead to hers and I can’t really describe what I felt but that it was a wave of comfort that told me everything was just fine and as it should be. I read somewhere that growing up, a human being essentially unlearns comfort with and understanding of the true nature of existence. All the clutter of the daily spectacle, ambition, desires, goals, materialism, ego pile up on each other and then we’re fucked.
Anyway, with my head back in the clouds I was back to square one. No longer expecting the imminent heart attack but still near-paralyzed by the course of life. I wanted to drown these heady concerns with booze, with surfing, with skateboarding but I knew there was no going back. I’d embarked on something there was no turning away from. So I took it head on but not like when I was running up the hill trying to show death how indestructible I was. Nor did I surrender to the tragedy of life. But I finally accepted this is how it is, how it always has been, and how it always will be for everyone and every living thing before and after me. Now I wake up and I remind myself and meditate on the unquestionable truth that one-day I will die and that this is all temporary. Seems so simple but try it. Take a deep breath and say to yourself, you are going to die.
My acupuncturist reminded me that while all this spiritual contemplation is necessary and healthy, I have still been given a physical body and I still have to live. With this, I’m still trying to move forward. While it has undoubtedly been a very egocentric journey, I don’t really know how one is supposed to control their ego without a very thorough examination of it.
For now, I’m trying to break the stubborn adhesion to material things, desires and ambitions. I feel more patient with people. And I’m trying to be generous and compassionate because those attributes make tangible sense beyond spiritual brownie points.
All this has led me to a very difficult place in terms of art. I’ve taken a break from writing for obvious reasons. But, I think I hope I eventually get back into a head-space where I can create some worthwhile crap again.
I’ve always thought that writing was like an internal cleansing and mental, emotional and spiritual exercise,, while surfing and skateboarding were the physical expressions of the same thing.
I never stopped surfing or skateboarding. But I have stopped trying to force them. I used to catch a good wave and really hope my friend saw it. Or I whacked a good top turn and get really stoked but then get depressed that it was over and that when I die, that top turn will be nothing to nobody. Now I don’t care. It almost makes me smile, that it all disappears as it happens. And you know what, in some ways I think I’m surfing and skateboarding better than ever. Finding some real ‘Flow’- at least in my head. Hopefully, the writing will eventually follow suit.
And I thank death for forcing me to face it because now I think I might be able to really start living and if I’m lucky help a few other people do the same.
Now you tell me, just how the fuck am I supposed to blog and twitter about this type of shit?
Hey, I never popped any happy pills.
4.6.09
clowning
i'm thinking of taking up clowning. i miss clowns. real clowns. not this insane clown posse juggalo nonsense. like a parisian mime or something. roberto benigni. rome should pay this guy to just be.
actually i lie, i don't miss them as my home village of mumbles never had a sanctioned 'village clown.' but i certainly feel the absence of the clown in modern society.
i have this friend- his name is plain old brian from philadelphia. but he tells people he is BRIANO the clown or sometimes ZOMPEI. he communicates with my child like he is a wild beast. he works at new seasons on division and does karaoke every saturday at the bear's paw. he's in love with a girl i went to school with half way around the world. he always compliments me on how well i sing 'amazing grace' but i'll never do karaoke again. no way. clowning shouldn't be an ego trip in a dive bar. here is Zompei riding around portland. portland should pay this guy to just be.
of course mark gonzales is my favourite clown of all time. new york city should really pay this guy just to be.
i ran into gonz once during my one and only trip to ny. i remember walking around wondering to myself- 'where are the brooklyn banks' and i wonder if i'll see gonz. so i turn a corner and tell the family, 'i think something i need to see is up there and around the corner from this police station.' they replied, 'but we're tired and we want to sit down and drink coffee.' i said, 'one minute, i think i'm where i need to be.'
so i rounded the corner and there was gonz. and this is true man. i'm not just shitting you for the sake of this pointless ramble.
gonz was skating the brooklyn banks. he was trying this wallride to fakie on the pillars with an insanse body varial thrown in for good measure. really sit down and consider that for a minute. a body varial- mid wallride to fakie!?
i got my camera and said, 'i'm going to take a photo of the gonz.' but it felt weird. as i got closer, gonz saw me and i shied away.
so i ran back to the hotel, the whole length of manhattan and grabbed my rollerboard and skated all the way back to the brooklyn banks. i got my kickflip. skated with some kids and then hit the streets. a great day.
anyway, i'd like tillamook county to hire me to be a clown but i don't think i have the courage. i'll live in bay city surf either jetty in the morning and then clown in the afternoon. i'll wear all black with white shoes and speak french. i'm practicing talking to myself in public. and i'm getting good at looking silly also, which is not difficult when you are 34 and still insist on riding a skateboard. i'd probably get sent back to portland pretty quick.
a friend of mine recently congratulated me on this blog not becoming an endless string of youtube clips... sorry...



