Not sure where I found this. Perhaps on a Paipo surfing site. In an ironic twist of fate a native Papua New Guinean, in an effort to mimic the antics of visiting surfers, perhaps gives us a glimpse of The Garden.
The main thesis of Foulweather #2 posits that the beach is the symbolic meeting ground of nature and civilization. A universal site of Paradise Lost due to the overwhelming pressure that modern life, dependent on industrial/technocentric capitalism, is putting on the planet. As we come further removed from nature, some psychiatrists now fear we will see a rise in a mass-psychosis, a primeval grieving we all feel, consciously or not, for a more connected existence.
The Beach has long been the locale of leisure and escapism from 'civilized' life but perhaps more than that, it has a natural pull for most of us, representative of a simpler yet wilder existence, closer to our land-base... but perhaps it is too late...