Last week I scored some fun waves but had forgotten my leash in the car. Leashless in Autumn Oregon surf is not somewhere I usually like to be but it was quite the experience. Having to weigh up the waves all the more. Total commitment or total avoidance. I actually think I surfed better for it. It slowed things down in my mind, kept my feet firmly planted. I was boggled by how a plastic cord could alter my surfing experience so drastically. Respect to the pre-kook cord guys, for sure. I felt naked, vulnerable but totally alert and in tune with what I was trying to do. There again, sharing bowly rights with only two other people can do that.
The next day I was walking out to another surf spot and came across the decomposing shark above (crappy cell phone pic...). It gave me an unexpected but overwhelming sense of calm or maybe that was the overhead reeling lefts. Either way, I think I can fall in love with surfing again, if I avoid all the bullshit...
Oh no, I'm in danger of becoming an Oregon Surf Blogger...
