04 January 2009

Llangennith

Lines for miles. Pic taken yesterday and posted on BBC Wales Surfing by some bloke named 'Spen 45.' It was bigger today.

This is pretty much what I've been getting every dawnie I've pulled since I got here. Solid little groundswell with offshore winds. Mostly shoulder to head with a few well overhead waves pumping through now and again. More of the same for the next couple of days by the looks of it. Everything from close out ice tubes to racey peelers. Just about getting to grips with the twinnie. Walking the line between control and chaos. Wish I had a thruster with me also...
...Oh yeah, Fuck the IDF. Free Palestine! If I had been in London as planned I would have attended the solidarity march. Instead I indulged in some selfish surfing... Not the first time...