27 June 2011

still hiding from the poem

photo by someone who never stops.

cruise control
boiled egg in the dark
leave the city before i can see it
sunrise over t-mook
walking through the trees
the air feels like autumn
it makes me think of good waves
the waves aren't good though
but there are some crystal green walls pitching tiny tubes
it is always bigger than it looks
and i'm wearing far too little neoprene
my first wave is an obvious close-out
but what the hell, i'm on auto-pilot
it pitches enough for me to tuck the top half of my stiff body under the lip
before the lip hits my back
i think to myself, this might be a pretty nice view
dawn rays on an empty beach
as the water makes contact with my neck
the temperature shock sucks all the air out of my lungs
and wakes me up
you can't hide forever

with the water this cold
for once
i'm slotted longer than i want to be

i walk over the rocks
and imagine how real swells are going to break
and smack me out of the slumber