12 September 2011

The reason why: Carwyn

Hossegor 1989. Photo by Alex Williams.

Carwyn Williams was busting his fins free a long time ago. No doubt, he remains, one of 'the reasons why' for many Welsh surfers.

I just watched God Went Surfing With The Devil, more on that later but for now, let's just say, I'm not complaining about living 1.5 hours from the beach, only getting to surf once a week or getting skunked for a long time.