19 October 2017


I dreamed of this place long before I ever went there or knew it existed. But I ended up there completely randomly on a visit to Oregon with no clue it was a surf spot. As I was hiking down I came across a couple of surfers in the woods on their way back up. "You find waves down there?" I naively asked. With giant grins on their faces, they replied "Oh man... just the two of us... right after right... eagles... whales..." They went on. "Hum." More over-enthusiastic, over-exaggerating yanks, I thought to myself. "Cool." I replied. 

Years later, I was placed under the same spell they were that day and I've got stories. I've got stories about walking down the trail at dawn on ice cold October mornings, about deer on the beach, finding free beer gifted to me from the gods in the bushes, whales in the line up, eagles flying over perfect waves, sharing waves with just a couple of friends for hours on end, getting stuck outside on a 10' day and kissing the boulders when I finally made it to the shore, a friend getting lost in the woods never to be seen again in quite the same way, learning to breathe underwater, returns to Eden and of course stories about the secret of eternal nows/ perfect presents. Of my top ten surf sessions, a couple took place down here. But truth be told, the reef is a fickle beast, sand shifts, things change and its easy to forget the good times and pretend she doesn't exist because she rarely does. And in reality the waves are usually secondary to the whole experience. And its an experience of commitment. You know, if you've been. 

As a result, significant time can go by without even a visit. Its been years now since I've 'scored' this place. But rest assured, its now OK to bury some of me here. After my last breath, surely send half of me to the Gower Peninsula but at this stage in my life I'm starting to feel somewhat Oregonian. Enough of me has been shed here that I can now comfortably be chopped up and thrown off this towering cape into the green waters below. Let me be devoured by fish, sea lions, GWs, and birds of prey and return to it all.