03 December 2021



 

16 November 2021

11 October 2021

09 October 2021

03 October 2021

Home Stretch

i stopped to pick up a hitchhiker just south of Creswell, Oregon

i said,

i can give you a lift on three conditions:

the windows stay open

our masks stay on

and we listen to the same song for the next 120 miles (your choice of song)

unfortunately he picked a short song

fortunately it was "Cool" by Pylon.

Everything Is Cool. 

East/ West/ Eagle/ Pelican



 

19 September 2021


 

08 September 2021

K Curb


Curbs. I was starting to look beyond curbs. But it is where it all started and where it will all end. There is no getting away from that. I have known of this Fire Lane curb for some time but I had been delaying sampling it. Short on time and inspiration, last Sunday, I grabbed my board and walked over to this curb. I walked to keep my presence discrete. The air was hot, humid and hazy, as was my hair. This brilliant red curb was in the shade. Perhaps a few centimeters lower than your typical Portland curb. A cheater but also gift to experimentation. A half hour blast resulted in movement in new directions. This clip will not come with directions. 

The next day I went surfing at my favorite spot. I was the first out, paddling into the mist, completely unaware of how the waves were unloading on the reef. Turns out they were mostly slow and sloppy. The hordes soon followed, as did the jostling and competition. The rip sucked us all on top of each other for three hours. I snagged a few including one set wave bomb, but really, this curb cuts clearer than all that shit. I didn't think it would be this way at this stage of the game.

06 September 2021

04 September 2021


 

28 August 2021

Bay City Rollin'



A lesser visited park on the Oregon Coast. The smooth Dreamland finish has been weathered to a coastal crust. The slip to grip to speed ratio is currently perfect. Not quite skin-eating texture but it might get there in another year or two. Deceptively simple in lay out, hidden corners and features abound. Here is a quick clip of a session on my way back to the Val after three days of Tillamook County surf navigation.