Mermaid and angel at the Aberystwyth war monument, at the remains of Aberystwyh Castle, where I used to do my daily surf check.I was going to write about a pretty fucking good surf session I had on Friday. I was going to try and get all poetic about how a couple friends and I stumbled upon a perfect wave on the off chance and surfed a perfect right-hander for hours with no one in sight. I was going to talk about chomped seals and isolated pockets of oil glass. Bowly peaks and racing walls that were shredable all the way to the shore pound. I was going to paint a picture of turquoise faces, dropping in and setting up for a hundred yard rip-ride. And then sharing a couple of sunset tinnies on the steep pebble beach as the pelicans swooped over head. But it all sounded a bit trite. Let's just say surfing continues to ruin and save my life.
Sæglópur, á lífi Kominn heim
Sæglópur, á lífi Kominn heim
þaõ kemur kafari Komin heim
þaõ kemur kafari Komin heim
A lost seafarer, alive has returned home
A lost seafarer, alive has returned home
A diver comes, has returned home
A diver comes , has returned home . Sæglópur/ Lost At Sea -Sigur Ros
