27 July 2009


8.5' @ 14 seconds
if you know what that means you know the potential that was out there on friday
it was far from pacific
sunday, i washed the crusty sea salt off my skin
and baptized my four year old, in the only way she'll ever know
under a cascading waterfall
in a gorge cathedral
a good way east
from some of the best waves i've seen
in a long time...

...what a total fucking hippy...